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Traditional Men’s Attire

This costume represents the typical form of dress worn by the Greeks of Alaya in the early 20th century. The ensemble combines insular, Asia Minor, and mainland influences, with pronounced elements of social prestige and practicality.
1. Headscarf and Fez
The base is the red fez, a symbol of identity in Asia Minor and also an obligatory head covering following the Ottoman reforms. From the fez hangs a black tassel, usually of silk. Beneath the fez a white cloth headscarf (or *tsouloufi*) is placed, absorbing perspiration and protecting the fabric.
2. The Poukamisa (Shirt)
White cotton, with a standing collar and a small opening at the chest. Its simplicity contrasted with the more elaborate outer garments, indicating practicality.
3. The Waistcoat – Zibouni
One of the most important components, made of black woollen cloth and richly decorated with black *neraidogemisi* cordwork and tassels, with embroidered banded, vegetal, or symmetrical motifs. The ornamentation is tone-on-tone (black on black), a technique requiring considerable skill. This waistcoat clearly reflects the influence of the urban centres of Asia Minor.
4. The Overcoat – Black Kapota / Short Cape
Woolen, heavy, with an exterior pile. An informal yet elegant garment, serving both as protection from the cold and as a symbol of prestige. Its length reaches the waist, allowing the volume of the trousers to take prominence.
5. The Vraka (Baggy Trousers)
The characteristic black *vraka* is perhaps the most recognisable element. Made of a substantial fabric, with deep pleats and generous volume, it allows ease of movement in everyday and occupational activities (sailors, farmers, artisans). Its use in black is particularly characteristic of the coastal regions of Asia Minor.
6. The Belt – Woven Zonarás
The belt is loom-woven, with vertical stripes in red, pink, purple, green, and white. It was wrapped several times around the waist and held personal items, such as a knife and a tobacco pouch. The large tassel on one side indicates influences from the eastern coast and the commercial centres of Asia Minor.
7. The Boots – Embroidered *Kaltsantóres* / Footwear
High black boots with raised embroidery on the leather or heavy fabric. The motifs are vegetal and symmetrical, often executed in thread embroidery. They were typically made to order and served as a marker of social status.

Category: Product ID: 21029

Description

Materials and Craftsmanship
Wool (overcoat, waistcoat, vraka).
Cotton (shirt).
Silk tassel on the fez.
Woven cotton-and-silk blend in the belt.
Leather for the boots.

Traditional Techniques
Black-on-black cordwork, taftades, distinctive Asia Minor stitching techniques, and heavy pleating (fold work) for the *vraka*.

This costume was a formal or festive outfit worn by men of the Greek community, a symbol of dignity, industriousness, and social standing. It was worn at weddings, feast days, markets, and religious celebrations, and is representative of the “fine dress” of the people of Alaya prior to the exile of 1922. It was brought to Greece as a treasured heirloom. Many such costumes were preserved almost intact, as refugees regarded them as symbols of roots and identity. It is exhibited at the Folklore Museum of KE.MI.PO., Municipality of Nea Ionia.

Kindly made available for photography by KE.MI.PO., Municipality of Nea Ionia.

Object Data

Inventory Number

2878

Date

19th century

Ingredients

Wool, cotton, silk

Dimensions

H150cm - W60cm

Provenance

Alaya, Asia Minor

DEEP VIEW

Museum of Alagiotes
ALAYA Cultural Space
5, Karolidou str.
14343 Nea Ionia, Greece
Research Access
Researchers of Asia Minor culture wishing to study objects from the permanent collection are invited to contact us at 6974 902336.

alaya.association

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